I’ve been thinking of a simple backpack design since I first made the Crochet Foldaway Mesh Bag three years ago. Finally, here it is! Say hello to my new Crochet No-Sew Convertible Backpack! 

It’s an eco-friendly bag that you can quickly convert from a backpack to a purse. I designed it to be spacious enough to fit a lot of things so it’s great for travel, beach, pool, or everyday use.

It’s my first time using nylon yarn, and I love how the material feels light but shapes the bag well. Of course, you could easily make this bag with any yarn you like. 

You see, I like sharing patterns that are simple and a little bit mindless, without complicated stitch designs but modern-looking. With this bag, you’ll only need to have an understanding of two simple stitches; the double crochet stitch and the half double crochet stitch, both of which are easy to learn. Also, if you find sewing the most boring part of crocheting (like me, haha) you’ll love this project. I made the double-layer base with a handle insert so this means absolutely no seaming or spending time at the end of the project assembling everything. It’s perfect for beginner crocheters as well as advanced crocheters, and everyone in between.

MATERIALS:

• 5.0mm crochet hook (US H-8 / UK 6) for the bases and body
• 4.0mm crochet hook (US G-6 / UK 8) for the bag handle
• Yarn: 100% Nylon yarn (2MM) in light brown color. I used approximately 300M.

ABBREVIATION/STITCHES:

• ch – chain 
• sc – single crochet (US) / dc – double crochet (UK)
• hdc – half-double crochet (US) / htr – half-treble crochet (UK)
• dc – double crochet (US) / tr – treble crochet (UK)
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• sl st – slip stitch
• [sc, inc] n times – repeat the pattern between parentheses n times. 
• (N sts) – number of stitches in a row after finishing round.

If you need guide with the stitches, you can always check my blog post about Basic Crochet Techniques HERE. 

GAUGE:

16 dc sts and 8 rows = 5” square

NOTES:

• Chain 2 at the beginning of each row is not considered a stitch.
• Finished bag measures 13” height and 12” in width (measured flat lay, excluding base). You’ll be able to adjust this in length by adding more rows.
• Any variations to hook size and yarn weight will also result in a different sized bag.

PATTERN

INNER BASE:

(Using the 5.0mm crochet hook)

Chain 22 (I recommend making lose chains or use a one size bigger crochet hook as you will be working the half of the first round in back humps of each chain)

Round 1: dc in the 3rd chain from hook, 2dc in the next st, dc in each of the next 17 sts, 2dc in the last chain, (working on the other side of the base chains) dc in the first chain, 2dc in the next chain, dc in each of the next 17 chains, 2dc in the last chain, sl st in the first stitch to join (44 dc sts made)

Round 2: ch 2, 2dc in the same st as the beginning chain, 2dc in the next st, dc in each of the next 18 sts, 2dc in each of the next 4 sts, dc in each of the next 18 sts, 2dc in each of the last 2 sts, sl st in the first stitch to join (52 dc sts made)

Round 3: ch 2, 2dc in the same st as the beginning chain, 2dc in the next 2 sts, dc in each of the next 20 sts, 2dc in each of the next 6 sts, dc in each of the next 20 sts, 2dc in each of the last 3 sts, sl st in the first stitch to join (64 dc sts made)

Round 4: ch 2, 2dc in the same st as the beginning chain, 2dc in the next 3 sts, dc in each of the next 24 sts, 2dc in each of the next 8 sts, dc in each of the next 24 sts, 2dc in each of the last 4 sts, Sl St in the first stitch to join (80 dc sts made)

Cut the yarn and weave ends. 

BASE HANDLE INSERT: 

Row 1: Ch 22, dc in 3rd ch from hook, dc in each of the remaining chains (20 dc sts made)

Row 2-5: Ch 2, turn, dc in the same st as the beginning chain, dc in each of the next 19 sts across (20 dc sts made)

Fold the piece horizontally then insert hook into the very first base chain you made from Row 1, then pull the last loop you made from Row 5. Chain 1, *insert hook in all the 4 loops you see on top, yarn over then make an sc. Repeat from * until the end to join the folded piece (20 sc sts made)

Do not cut the yarn, we will continue crocheting the outer base. 

OUTER BASE: 

Round 1: ch 2, (work in front loops only) dc in the same st as the beginning chain, 2dc in the next st, dc in each of the next 17 sts, 2dc in the last st, (work in each of the remaining single loops on the other side) dc in the first st, 2dc in the next st, dc in each of the next 17 sts, 2dc in the last st, Sl St in the first stitch to join (44 dc sts made)

Round 2: ch 2, 2dc in the same st as the beginning chain, 2dc in the next st, dc in each of the next 18 sts, 2dc in each of the next 4 sts, dc in each of the next 18 sts, 2dc in each of the last 2 sts, Sl St in the first stitch to join (52 dc sts made)

Round 3: ch 2, 2dc in the same st as the beginning chain, 2dc in the next 2 sts, dc in each of the next 20 sts, 2dc in each of the next 6 sts, dc in each of the next 20 sts, 2dc in each of the last 3 sts, Sl St in the first stitch to join (64 dc sts made)

Round 4: ch 2, 2dc in the same st as the beginning chain, 2dc in the next 3 sts, dc in each of the next 24 sts, 2dc in each of the next 8 sts, dc in each of the next 24 sts, 2dc in each of the last 4 sts, Sl St in the first stitch to join (80 dc sts made)

JOINING THE INNER BASE AND OUTER BASE:

Place the inner base on top of the outer base (wrong side facing each other). 

Without removing the hook from the last loop of the outer base, insert hook into the first stitch made in Round 4 of the outer base then into the front loop only of the first stitch made in Round 4 of the inner base, pull yarn over into the 3 loops on the hook. Chain 2, dc into the same loops as the beginning chain.

Make a dc in each of the remaining 79 stitches across by inserting the hook into the next stitch made in Round 4 of the outer base then into the front loop only of the next stitch made in Round 4 of the inner base, sl st in the first stitch to join (80 dc sts made)

Do not cut yarn, we will continue crocheting the body of the bag.

BODY:

Round 1-16: ch 2, dc in the same st as the beginning chain, dc in each of the next sts around, Sl St in the first stitch to join (80 dc sts made)

Round 17: ch 2, hdc in the same st as the beginning chain, hdc in each of the next sts around, Sl St in the first stitch to join (80 hdc sts made)

Round 18: ch 2, (work this round in every 3rd loop of the hdc stitches) 

hdc in the first 3 sts, ch2, skip the next 2 sts, hdc in each of the next 6 sts, ch2, skip the next 2 sts, hdc in each of the next 14 sts, [ch2, skip the next 2 sts, hdc in each of the next 6 sts] 3 times, ch2, skip the next 2 sts, hdc in each of the next 14 sts, ch2, skip the next 2 sts, hdc in each of the next 6 sts, ch2, skip the next 2 sts, hdc in the last 3 sts, Sl St in the first stitch to join (64 hdc sts and 8 chain spaces made)

Round 19: ch 2, (work this round in every 3rd loop of the hdc stitches and back hump of each chain) dc in the first 3 sts, dc in the next 2 chains, dc in the next 6 sts, dc in the next 2 chains, dc in the next 14 sts, [dc in the next 2 chains, dc in the next 6 sts] 3 times, dc in the next 2 chains, dc in the next 14 sts, dc in the next 2 chains, dc in the next 6 sts, dc in the next 2 chains, dc in the last 3 sts, Sl St in the first stitch to join (80 dc sts made)

Round 20: (work in all stitches as you normally do) ch 2, dc in the same st as the beginning chain, dc in each of the next sts around, Sl St in the first stitch to join (80 dc sts made)

Round 21: ch 1, slip stitch in the same st as the beginning chain, slip stitch in each of the next sts around, Sl St in the first stitch to join (80 sl sts made)

Fasten off then secure the ends. 

I-CORD HANDLE:  

(I switched to 4.0mm crochet hook)

Chain 4 

Round 1: Insert hook into the back hump of the 2nd chain from hook, yarn over then pull a loop. *Insert hook into the back hump of the next chain, yarn over then pull a loop. Repeat from * to the last chain. You should have 4 loops on your hook.

Round 2: While holding the loops securely remove the hook from the last 3 loops. Yarn over then pull a loop into the first loop made from previous round. *Insert hook into the next loop made from previous round, yarn over then pull a loop. Repeat from * to the last loop. You should have 4 loops on your hook.

Repeat Round 2 until you get your desired length for your bag handle. My finished i-cord measures 63.5″ long.

Closing the i-cord: While holding the loops securely remove the hook from the last 3 loops. Yarn over then pull a loop into the first loop made from previous round. *Insert hook into the next loop made from the previous round, yarn over then pull a loop into the 2 loops on the hook. Repeat from * until you only have 1 loop on the hook. Fasten off and secure the ends leaving at least 10 inches tail.

HANDLE FASTENER:

Chain 10, slip stitch to the first chain to join. Chain 2, dc in the back hump of the each chain, sl st in the first stitch to join. Fasten off and secure the ends. (10 dc sts made)

Note: You can adjust the number of chains/stitches based on how tight you want the fastener to be. 

ASSEMBLY:

Weave the handle into the bag holes, then insert both ends into the adjustable insert. 

Insert and pull one end of the handle into the base handle insert until you have a certain length to comfortably crochet and join the other end. 

You can refer to the picture below on how I joined the ends by making single crochet stitches.

Lastly, fasten off and weave in ends. You may pull the handle inside the base insert to hide the joined section.

I’m blown away by your response to my Crochet Foldaway Mesh Bag! So, I’m sharing another foldaway bag pattern using a new crochet stitch that I learned last year – the double lattice crochet stitch (hence the bag name).

I finished making this bag during our Holy Week break. It does take a few hours to make, but it’s certainly worth it! It’s also a very easy pattern when you get the hang of it. Like my Crochet Foldaway Mesh Bag, this is worked from the bottom up. After row 5, repeat rows 4 to 5 until you get the length you want. Follow additional steps to make the handle and then sew the base back and forth using the running stitch method. And you’re done! 

The Crochet Foldaway Double Lattice Stitch bag is so versatile that you can take it on your next grocery trip just like Mama in the photo. If you are heading to the beach or park, stuff it with a towel and sunscreen, a book, or a crochet project.

MATERIALS:

• Hook: 4.0mm crochet hook (US G-6 / UK 8)
• Yarn: Dapper Dreamer Combed Cotton yarn in Stone color. I used approximately 80% of the whole skein. 
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers

ABBREVIATION/STITCHES:

• ch – chain 
• sc – single crochet (US) / dc – double crochet (UK)
• tr – treble crochet (US) / dtr – double treble (UK)
• sc2tog – crochet two single crochet stitches together
• tr2tog – crochet two treble crochet stitches together
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• sl st – slip stitch
• Asterisk * – repeat the pattern from point where you see this symbol. 
• (N sts) – number of stitches in a row after finishing round.

If you need guide with the stitches, you can always check my blog post about Basic Crochet Techniques HERE. 

GAUGE:

• 4 clusters and 8 rows = 5” square
• 1 Cluster: tr2tog + tr + 4ch

NOTES:

• Chain 4 at the beginning of each row is considered as 1 treble stitch.
• Make sure to leave at least 2 yards of yarn for weaving the base.
• Finished bag measures 14” in height and 12.5” in width (measured flat lay). You’ll be able to adjust this in length by adding more rows and make it wider by adding more chains to the foundation chain. Total number of foundation chain should be in multiples of 6. 
• Any variations to hook size and yarn weight will also result in a different sized bag.

PATTERN

Chain 180 (I recommend making lose chains or use a one size bigger crochet hook as you will be working the first round in back humps of each chain), slip stitch into the first chain made. 

Round 1: ch 1, sc in each back humps of each chain around, sl st in the first sc made to join (180 sc sts made)

Round 2: ch 8, tr in the same st as the beginning ch, *tr2tog inserting hook into next sc st for first leg and then into following 5th sc st for the second leg, skipping 4ch between, ch 4, tr in the same sc st as 2nd leg of cluster just made. Repeat from * to last 5 sc sts, make a tr in the next sc st then without closing the st, sl st into the 4th ch of beginning ch to join (30 clusters made)

Round 3: ch 4, skipping 4ch between, tr in each of the first 2 tr sts, *ch 4, tr2tog inserting hook into the same st as previous tr made for first leg and then into the next tr st for the second leg, skipping 4ch between, tr in the next st. Repeat from * to end, ch 4, sl st into the first tr made to join (30 clusters made)

Round 4: ch 4, tr2tog inserting hook into the next tr st for first leg and then into the next tr st for the second leg, skipping 4ch between, *ch 4, tr in the same st as 2nd leg of cluster just made, tr2tog inserting hook into the next tr st for first leg and then into the next tr st for the second leg, skipping 4ch between. Repeat from * to last tr st and 4ch, ch 4, tr in the same st as 2nd leg of cluster just made, tr2tog inserting hook into the last tr st for first leg and then into the same st as the beginning ch for the second leg, skipping 4ch between, ch 4, sl st into the 4th ch of beginning ch to join (30 clusters made)

Round 5: ch 4, tr in the next st, *ch 4, tr2tog inserting hook into the same st as previous tr made for first leg and then into the next tr st for the second leg, skipping 4ch between, tr in the next st. Repeat from * to end, ch 4, make a tr in the same st as previous tr then without closing the st, sl st into the 4th ch of beginning ch to join (30 clusters made)

Round 6: repeat Round 4

Round 7: repeat Round 5

Round 8 to 22: Repeat Rounds 4 & 5 alternately

Round 23: ch 1, sc in the same st as beginning ch, sc in the next tr st, *sc 4 times in the 4ch space, sc in each of the next 2 tr sts, repeat from * to last 4ch space, sc 4 times in the 4ch space, sl st in the first sc made to join (180 sc sts made)

Round 24: ch 1, sl st in the same st as beginning ch, sl st in the next 24 sts, ch 100, skip 39 sts, sl st in the next st, sl st in each of the next 50 sts, ch 100, skip 39 sts, sl st in the next st,  sl st in each of the next 25 sts, sl st in the beginning ch made to join (102 sl sts and 200 chains made)

Round 25: ch 1, (leave the sl sts made from the previous Round untouched and crochet in the sc stitches made from Round 23 when making stitches for this round), sc in each of the 25 sc sts, sc in each back humps of next 100 chains, sc in each of the next 51 sc sts, sc in each back humps of next 100 chains, sc in each of the last 26 sc sts, sl st in the first sc made to join (302 sc sts made)

Round 26: ch 1, sl st in each of the sts around, sl st in the beginning ch made to join (302 sl sts made)

Round 27: ch 1, (leave the sl sts made from the previous Round untouched and crochet in the sc stitches made from Round 25 when making stitches for this round), sc in each of the first 24 sc sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sts, sc in the next st, sc2tog in the next 2 sts, sc in each of the next 92 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sts, sc in the next st, sc2tog in the next 2 sts, sc in each of the next 49 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sts, sc in the next st, sc2tog in the next 2 sts, sc in each of the next 92 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sts, sc in the next st, sc2tog in the next 2 sts, sc in each of the last 24 sts. Cut the yarn leaving about 6 inches tail. (293 sc sts made)

Fastened off to the first chain made and weave in ends using a yarn needle. 

BASE ASSEMBLY: 

• Lay the piece on a flat surface as shown on my photo below. You will now work to create the sides of the bag by locating the center point. I recommend placing stitch markers so you’ll have guide when folding the sides later. 

• Once done marking, fold inwards on both the sides as shown below. If you are familiar with making a brown paper bag or gift bag, the same process of folding the sides applies here. 

• Sew the base back and forth using running stitch method. 

Lastly, fasten off then secure the ends. I cannot wait to start seeing your bags popping up on my feed! Please take a picture of your finished bag if you ever decide to make one. Share it on Instagram with the hashtag #iheartgantsilyo and tag @iheartgantsilyo.  Happy Crocheting!

Hello everyone! It has been quite some time since I’ve posted here and if you’re reading this and still following along, just know I am so grateful!

As much as I miss crocheting and sharing my projects here on the blog, taking a step back has been good not only for my hand and wrist but for my heart and soul as well. I was able to focus on the things most important to me instead of trying to do too much and becoming overwhelmed. I still visit this space once in a while though, and it warms my heart to see some of you already made items from my patterns which makes me want to continue designing more projects that you will enjoy. 

For a starter, I’m sharing the pattern for this simple crochet spray bottle holder that I made for myself and my family. 

This is a practical and must-have item especially during this time of the pandemic. Attaching a bottle of hand sanitizer or alcohol to your bag is a great way to make sure you always have the means to sanitize your hands. It has a modern textured design that does not take long to make so it’s a great project to do when you just need to clear your mind for a moment or if you need free therapy. With everything that happened (and still happening this year), we could use our days at home to be a little crafty and find small joys to accomplish things we often never had time for, or perhaps begin learning something new.

That said, continue scrolling to get to the pattern. I’ll pop on here now and then with new projects and you can message me if you need clarifications with this pattern or any other patterns on my blog. Meanwhile, let’s always choose to be kind out there, friends, and stay healthy! 

MATERIALS:

• Hook: No.6 Japan crochet hook / 1.00mm crochet hook
• Small yarn needle
• Yarn: Mercerized cotton yarn (I used approximately 58 meters of Cannon yarn for one spray bottle holder. 
• Large size (4.8cm x 1.6cm) metal lobster clasp hook/keychain or similar item

ABBREVIATION/STITCHES:

• ch – chain
• sc – single crochet (US) / dc – double crochet (UK)
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• sl st – slip stitch
• [sc, inc] n times – repeat the pattern between parentheses n times.
• (N sts made) – number of stitches in a round after finishing round.
• back loop only – instead of inserting your hook underneath the two loops of a single crochet stitch, you will insert the hook at the center of the stitch and exits underneath the back loop.
• back hump of each chain – bumps behind the foundation chains.

If you need a guide with the stitches, you can always check my post about Basic Crochet Techniques HERE.

NOTES:

PATTERN

BASE:

Chain 1 in a magic ring

Round 1: sc 6 in the magic ring, slip stitch into the first st made to join (6 sc sts made)

Round 2: ch 1, inc in each of the sts around, slip stitch into the first st made to join (12 sc sts made)

Round 3: ch 1, inc in each of the sts around, slip stitch into the first st made to join (24 sc sts made)

Round 4: ch 1, sc around, slip stitch into the first st made to join (24 sc sts made)

Round 5: ch 1, sc in the first st, inc in the next st, [sc in the next st, inc in the next st] 11 times, slip stitch into the first st made to join (36 sc sts made)

Round 6: ch 1, sc around, slip stitch into the first st made to join (36 sc sts made)

Round 7: ch 1, sc in each of the first 2 sts, inc in the next st, [sc in each of the next 2 sts, inc in the next st] 11 times, slip stitch into the first st made to join (48 sc sts made)

BODY:

Round 1: ch 35, sc in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in each of the remaining 33 chains. 

Hold the base with its right side facing you, then slip stich into the first sc st made from last round of base, slip stitch into the next sc st, turn by pushing the base backward. (34 sc sts made)

Round 2: skipping the 2 sl sts made, sc in back loop only of each of the 34 sts across. (34 sc sts made)

Round 3: ch 1, turn, sc in back loop only of each of the 34 sts across, sl st in next 2 sc sts from base, turn by pushing the base backward. (34 sc sts made)

NOTE: Basically, you will need to sl st in 2 sts around the base after every other row to attach the body to the base. 

Round 4 – 43: Repeat Rounds 2 & 3 alternately

NOTE: For the next round, I recommend making lose chains as you will be working stitches in the back humps of each chain.

Round 44: skipping the 2 sl sts made, sc in back loop only of each of the 34 sts across, ch 21, turn. (34 sc sts and 21 chains made)

Round 45: sc in the back hump of the 2nd chain from hook, sc in each of the back humps of next 19 chains, sc in back loop only of each of the 34 sts across, sl st in next 2 sc sts from base. (54 sc sts made)

Row 46: skipping the 2 sl sts made, sc in back loop only of each of the 34 sts across, sc in both loops of each remaining 20 sts. (54 sc sts made)

Round 47: ch 1, turn, sc in both loops of each 20 sts, sc in back loop only of each of the remaining 34 sts across, sl st in the last 2 sc sts from base. (54 sc sts made)

Round 48: Repeat Round 46

Round 49: ch 1, turn, sc in both loops of each 20 sts, sc in back loop only of each of the remaining 34 sts across, sl st again in the last sc st from base (54 sc sts made)

ASSEMBLY:

1. Remove the hook from the yarn loop.
2. Insert the hook in the first base chain made from Round 1 of the body.
3. Pull the unworked loop into that space. 
4. With the tail of the yarn positioned above the hook, insert hook into both loops of the last sc stitch made from Round 49 of the body.
5. Yarn over and pull a loop through that stitch.
6. Yarn over again then pull a loop into the two remaining loops on your hook. You just made your first sc stitch to start joining the two ends together! 

Making sure the two edges are properly aligned, insert the crochet hook into the second base chain made from Round 1 of the body and into the next sc stitch right under it, then make one single crochet. Repeat the same steps 32 times across to join the two ends together. (34 sc sts made)

Fasten off leaving approximately 8” long yarn tail. Thread in yarn needle. 

Put the lobster clamps keychain in place then fold the loop bar that will hold the keychain and sew its edge onto the body using running stitch method. 

Finally, insert your spray bottle, and voila!

Hello fellow crocheters! Today I am sharing my newest free crochet pattern that I’ve been working all May: the Foldaway Mesh Bag! This bag is my modern take on the traditional fishnet and plastic market bag that we have in the Philippines.

For years, I’ve seen tons of market bags designed by other makers and almost all of them are worked in the round from the bottom up. I actually made a few mini bags when I was a child and designed a Basketweave Stitch Pouch in that style last year. But growing up, I always wanted to create a crochet bag similar to my homegrown fishnet and plastic shopping bags wherein the sides of the bag were folded inwards and the base is secured by sewing everything together at the bottom. 

When this idea first came into my mind, I coudn’t imagine myself doing it as I didn’t have enough options back then for crochet materials. I guess, I just couldn’t imagine myself using a tiny steel crochet hook and mercerized cotton thread for this huge project. Now that I’m all grown up and have the necessary tools and yarn, I’m glad that this idea has finally come to life. And I love how it turned out! 

On the next photo below, you’ll see that the bottom of my bag was constructed like the base of a typical shopping bag but the two over-the-shoulder handles make it stylish enough to be carried anywhere. I worked it up using Dapper Dreamer Combed Cotton yarn which is one of my favorite medium weight yarns of all-time! I’ve been obsessed with this yarn ever since I used it for my Crochet Gingerbread Man Ornament because of its sturdier material compared to acrylic. It has many colors available, but Sepia has been my go-to shade so far. Of course, you can make it in your favorite color to guarantee that you’ll love to use the bag everywhere you go. 

The bag is very handy and did I say reusable? You can actually bring it when you do your market and grocery errands. It is compact and folds away easily, but can hold a lot of supplies even that big brown paper bag – so it would be great for a yarn bag or beach bag, too!

I really hope you can make this bag for yourself. And if you know someone who would love to make this, please do not hesitate to share it. In one way or another, we’ll be able to contribute in reviving our environment because this can actually help in reducing our single use plastic bags.

So keep on reading for the pattern below which is fully customizable and super easy. You can make the bag longer, shorter, wider or thinner, it’s totally up to you! Just don’t forget to enjoy the process of making it.

MATERIALS:

• Hook: 4.0mm crochet hook (US G-6 / UK 8)
• Yarn: I used the excess Dapper Dreamer Combed Cotton yarn in Sepia color which is approximately 390 meters. (This was the excess yarn of the second cone I used for the Star Stitch Purse I made last year.)
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers

ABBREVIATION/STITCHES:

• ch – chain 
• sc – single crochet (US) / dc – double crochet (UK)
• dc – double crochet (US) / tr – treble (UK)
• sc2tog – crochet two single crochet stitches together
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• sl st – slip stitch
• Asterisk * – repeat the pattern from point where you see this symbol. 
• [sc, inc] n times – repeat the pattern between parentheses n times. 
• (N sts) – number of stitches in a row after finishing round.

If you need guide with the stitches, you can always check my blog post about Basic Crochet Techniques HERE. 

GAUGE: 

• 7 open spaces and 7 rows = 3” square

NOTES:

• Chain 4 at the beginning of each row is considered as 1dc + 1ch Mesh Stitch (open space).
• Make sure to leave at least 2 yards of yarn for weaving the base.
• Finished bag measures 14.5” in height and 16.5” in width (measured flat lay). You’ll be able to adjust this in length by adding more rows and make it wider by adding more chains to the foundation chain. Total number of foundation chain should be in multiples of 2. 
• Any variations to hook size and yarn weight will also result in a different sized bag.

PATTERN

Chain 176 (I recommend making lose chains or use a one size bigger crochet hook as you will be working the first round in back humps of each chain), slip stitch into the first chain made. 

Round 1: ch 1, sc in each back humps of each chain around, sl st in the first sc made to join (176 sc sts made)

Round 2: ch 4, skip the first and second sts below, dc in next st, *ch 1, skip next st below, dc in next st. Repeat from * to last dc st, ch 1, skip last st below, sl st into the beginning 4ch space to join (88 open spaces made)

Round 3: ch 4, *dc in next dc st, ch 1. Repeat from * to last dc st, ch 1, sl st into the beginning 4ch space to join (88 open spaces made)

Round 4-33: repeat Round 3

Round 34: ch 2, sc in open space, [sc in next dc st, sc in next open space] 11 times, sc in next dc st, ch 100, skip next 19 open space below, [sc in next dc st, sc in next open space] 25 times, sc in next dc st, ch 100, skip next 19 open space below, [sc in next dc st, sc in next open space] 13 times, sl st in the 2nd ch of beginning chains to join (102 sc sts & 200 chain loops made)

Round 35: ch 1, sc in the same st as the beginning ch, sc in each of the next 24 sc sts, sc in each back hump of the next 100 chains, sc in the next 51 sc sts, sc in each back hump of the next 100 chains, sc in each of the remaining 26 sc sts, sl st in the first sc to join (302 sc sts made)

Round 36: ch 1, sc in the same st as the beginning ch, sc in each of the next 23 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sts, sc in each 98 sts of first strap, sc2tog in the next 2 sts, sc in each of the next 49 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sts, sc in each 98 sts of second strap, sc2tog in the next 2 sts, sc in each of the remaining 25 sts, sl st in the first sc to join (298 sc sts made)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

BASE ASSEMBLY: 

Place the piece in front of you in a flat surface. 

Fold it as shown on my photo below. The single crochet stitches rounds made on the bag’s body (Round 34 to 36) should be positioned on top of each other.

You will now work to create the sides of the bag by locating the center point. Each side of my bag has 25 open spaces from Round 33, so the center point should be the 13th open space. I recommend placing stitch markers so you’ll have guide when folding the sides later. 

Once done marking, fold inwards on both the sides as shown below. If you are familiar with making a brown paper bag or gift bag, the same process of folding the sides applies here. 

Sew the base back and forth using running stitch method. 

Lastly, fasten off then secure the ends. If you decide to make yours, I’d love to see it! Take a picture and share it on Instagram with the hashtag #iheartgantsilyo and tag @iheartgantsilyo.  Happy Crocheting!

After I’ve finished designing my first crochet shrug, I literally could not wait to design another project using the second fingering weight cake yarn that I bought last summer. And what better project to make than a simple crochet wrap!

The journey of making this wrap has been really interesting. I was led to trying out many different stitches before I came across the “column and bowl” stitch in one of my crochet books. At first, I was a bit intimidated by this new stitch because it is worked using treble stitch that I found quite challenging for my already stiff hands. In spite of that, I just dove right into giving it a try and with a few tweaks everything came together nicely. The stitch turned out to be so much fun to crochet, too. I could not be happier with the result!

Would you believe that before now I had never ever crocheted a shawl? This means this particular wrap is so easy and beginner friendly. You start with making 6 chains and one cluster of treble stitches in a magic ring which is the point of your triangle, then increase at the start and end of each subsequent row to make the piece wider. It’s basically a repetitive pattern and easily customizable to your preferred size. You can work on it until you get the width and length you want or until you run out of yarn! Just make sure to leave enough yarn if you plan to add tassels later.

The wrap can be worn around the shoulders as cover-up during breezy days or snuggled up around the neck as a scarf. I just need some cooler weather now to wear it! (Haha) Below is a photo of me taken as soon as I got the piece off my crochet hook. Excited? I was totally thrilled! I immediately went out with my brother to do some photoshoot before even blocking the wrap!

Being a hands-on mama to a very energetic four year old boy who loves to run around when we’re out traveling, I used to dismiss the idea of making a shawl for myself. I thought why bother wearing a shawl (let alone make one), when I know it will eventually fall out and left tucked inside my bag anyway. But lately, I’ve come to realize that this season of motherhood shall pass and soon I will be needing a shawl in my life. So might as well design something for myself, and work on making fun projects overall while doing my best to enjoy the exhausting but fulfilling moments with my son now.

I decided to name this the “Blissful Wings” wrap because the double crochet stitches I placed in between clusters of treble stitches created an illusion of a thousand vertical little wings. (See the stitches up close in my photo below)

If you’re a fan of meditation projects like me you’re going to love this project because you don’t have to focus on following a pattern. You only need to know chain, double crochet, and treble stitches. It’s a perfect project when you quite feel like hibernating and just want to crochet while watching your favorite series on TV or while drinking a cup of tea or coffee. I worked on it during Eion’s nap time and playdates.

While the yarn I used this time comes in a vibrant Carnation colorway which has always been one of my favorite shades of pink next to old rose, you can certainly make this shawl with any gradient or in a plain colored yarn whichever matches your style.

Just scroll to the detailed pattern below when you are ready. I’ve also managed to film a short Video tutorial and draw a crochet chart to make it easier for anyone who wants to try the pattern, regardless of language.

MATERIALS:

• Hook: 2.5mm crochet hook
• Fingering weight yarn, approximately 280g to obtain the same size of the shawl I made.
• Tapestry needle

ABBREVIATION/STITCHES:

• ch – chain 
• dc – double crochet (US) / tr – treble (UK)
• tr – treble stitch (US) / dtr – double treble stitch (UK)
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• Asterisk * – repeat the pattern from point where you see this symbol. 
• (N sts) – number of stitches in a row after finishing row.

If you need guide with the stitches, you can always check my blog post about Basic Crochet Techniques HERE.

NOTES:

• This shawl is constructed from bottom to top.
• Finished shawl measures 22” in height and 64” in width (wingspan). You’ll be able to adjust this in length and width by adding more rows. 
• Any variations to hook size and yarn weight will also result in a different sized shawl. 
• This is a double-sided wrap, which means it appears the same on both sides and can be worn either way.

PATTERN

Begin with a magic ring. 

Row 1: ch 6, 6tr in the magic ring, ch 6, turn (1 set of cluster made)

Row 2: 5tr in the same st as the beginning chains, skip 2 sts, dc in the next st, skip next 2 sts, 6tr in the 6th chain of the beginning chain below, ch 6, turn (2 sets of cluster made)

Row 3: 5tr in the same st as the beginning chains, skip 2 sts, dc in the next st, skip next 2 sts, 5tr in the next dc st below, skip 2 sts, dc in the next st, skip 2 sts, 6tr in the 6th chain of the beginning chain below, ch 6, turn (3 sets of cluster made)

Row 4: 5tr in the same st as the beginning chains, *skip 2 sts, dc in the next st, skip next 2 sts, 5tr in the next dc st below, repeat from * until last cluster of tr, skip 2 sts, dc in the next st, skip 2 sts, 6tr in the 6th chain of the beginning chain below, ch 6, turn (4 sets of cluster made)

Row 5-71 (or until you run out of yarn): repeat Row 4

Fasten off and weave ends. Now you’re done!

To see how I made the Crochet Blissful Wings Wrap in action you may watch my video tutorial below. This is my first ever crochet video tutorial, hope it helps!

I would love to see your finished wraps, so please feel free to share photos on Instagram with the hashtag #iheartgantsilyo and tag @iheartgantsilyo. I would love to see them!

Hello, everyone! Today I present to you my first ever crocheted shrug which I have been working on over the past several months – the Wanderess Ribbed Shrug!

If you have been following my blog, you know that I’m still on my journey to discovering different types of yarn. Thus, nothing feels more exciting for me than designing a project using a newly discovered fingering weight gradient cake yarn! I bought the yarn last summer from one of our local independent dyers in Baguio. As soon as I received the yarn, I started crocheting right away. I’m already halfway done with the project before I realized I haven’t taken any photo of it! I’m thankful the yarn seller has been so accommodating and allowed me to use the photo below to feature the yarn on this blog post. Again, a big THANK YOU, Entangled.ph! You can find their online shop in Facebook and Instagram.

The yarn is 100% cotton, very soft, and produces a beautiful drape. With its Forget-Me-Not flower colorway, I’m amazed how it delicately transition from color to color. You can also decide whether to start crocheting from the outside or from the center, it will give you a result of different color arrangement though. I decided to use the light blue and azure color for the main part to give the shrug a semi-neutral look and the yellow to highlight the ribbing.

As might be expected for a first time user of this type of yarn, I thought of making a shawl for myself. But having a little boy on my hips all the time I knew I need something that would stay around me without having to worry that it’s going to fall out. So using the Rover Stitch, a stitch that caught my attention in one of the crochet books that hubby gave me, I decided to design a shrug instead.

Despite my excitement, it took me three months to finish the shrug because I only pick it up every now and then. I also did a lot of redoing to obtain the suitable fit. Good thing the yarn is quite sturdy even after countless frogging. Nevertheless, this is a really fun and easy pattern once you get the hang of it. It works up quickly and makes a great project for those crocheters who are comfortable with beginner patterns but want to try their hands at something a little more challenging. It has zero shaping, increasing and decreasing. You just have to crochet one big rectangular piece then fold and sew the edges together, leaving spaces to create the armholes.

With the 260 grams of yarn I have, I was able to make a shrug that fit is on small end to medium but the pattern can be easily adapted for various sizes. You’ll find more details in the pattern below. I gave the finished shrug to my niece since I prefer mine a little loose. I’m now waiting for another yarn posting so I can place an order to make a bigger shrug for myself.

CHOOSING THE NAME

As the stitch name suggests, you’ll notice that the stitches on each subsequent row are pointing or roving in different direction which to me somewhat resemble traveling sea waves. Some friends who have seen the shrug said the stitches look like groups of cherry blossoms or Sakura flowers, and this reminded me of Japan which happens to be one of my dream place to visit. In a nutshell, the Rover Stitch and my desire to travel and visit far off places with my family someday inspired me to choose the shrug name “wanderess” or female traveler.

MATERIALS:

• Hook: 2.5mm and 2.0mm crochet hooks
• Fingering weight yarn, approximately 260g to obtain the same size as the pattern below.
• Tapestry needle

ABBREVIATION/STITCHES:

• ch – chain
• sc – single crochet (US) / dc – double crochet (UK)
• dc – double crochet (US) / tr – treble (UK)
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• sl st – slip stitch
• Asterisk * – repeat the pattern from point where you see this symbol. 
• (N sts) – number of stitches in a row/round after finishing row/round.

If you need guide with the basic stitches, you can always check my blog post about Basic Crochet Techniques HERE. 

• fpsc – front post single crochet (Insert hook from front, under post stitch of previous row yarn over then pull up a loop, two loops on the hook. Yarn over again, pull through all loops on hook.
• bpsc – back post single crochet (Insert hook from back, over post stitch of previous row yarn over then pull up a loop, two loops on the hook. Yarn over again, pull through all loops on hook.

I am also sharing two helpful video tutorials from New Stitch a Day on how to do the “front post sc” stitch HERE and “back post sc” stitches HERE  just in case you need it once you do the ribbing.

SPECIAL STITCH:

Rover Stitch (Foundation Chain: Multiple of 6 sts + 5)

1st Row: dc into 6th chain from hook, dc into each of the next 2 chains, ch 3, dc into next chain, *skip 2 chains, dc into each of the next 3 chains, ch 3, dc into the next chain. Repeat from * to last 2 chains, skip 1 chain, dc into the last chain

2nd row: ch 3, turn, *[3dc, ch 3, dc] into the 3ch arch work. Repeat from * to last 3 dc sts, skip the 3 dc sts, dc into the 1st chain of previous row

3rd Row: ch 3, turn, *[3dc, ch 3, dc] into the 3ch arch work. Repeat from * to last 3 dc sts, skip the 3 dc sts, dc into the 3rd chain of beginning chains of previous row

Repeat 3rd row until you reach your desired length for the project.

To see how to crochet the Rover Stitch in action, click HERE for another helpful video tutorial from New Stitch a Day.

GAUGE AFTER BLOCKING: 

• 5 Rover Stitches and 11 rows = 3” square

NOTES:

• Chain 3 at the beginning of each row counts as 1 double crochet stitch unless otherwise stated. 
• This shrug is constructed from one large rectangle worked from the bottom up and seamed to create sleeves.
• It measures 53cm from top of neck to bottom and 78cm from end of sleeve to end of the other sleeve, without ribbed collar.
• This pattern fits size Small to Medium. You’ll be able to adjust this in length and width if needed by creating a longer or shorter foundation chain (multiple of 6 + 5) and crocheting for more or less rows.
• Any variations to hook size and yarn weight will also result in a different sized shrug, be sure to follow the gauge.

PATTERN

BODY RECTANGLE (ROVER STITCH ROWS):

Using the 2.5mm crochet hook, start by making 317 chains.

Row 1 (right side): dc into 6th chain from hook, dc into each of the next 2 chains, ch 3, dc into next chain, *skip 2 chains, dc into each of the next 3 chains, ch 3, dc into the next chain. Repeat from * to last 2 chains, skip 1 chain, dc into the last chain (52 set of rover stitch, plus 1dc st made)

Row 2: ch 3, turn, *[3dc, ch 3, dc] into the 3ch arch work. Repeat from * to last 3 dc sts, skip the 3 dc sts, dc into the 1st chain of previous row (52 set of rover stitch, plus 1dc st made)

Row 3: ch 3, turn, *[3dc, ch 3, dc] into the 3ch arch work. Repeat from * to last 3 dc sts, skip the 3 dc sts, dc into the 3rd chain of the beginning chains of previous row (52 set of rover stitch, plus 1dc st made)

Row 4 – 72: Repeat Row 3

From here you can add more rows if you want to make the shrug longer. Be sure to complete an “Even” number of rows so that you will be working at the “right side” of the rectangular piece once you start the border. 

BORDER:

Switch to 2.0mm crochet hook. 

Row 73: ch 3, turn, *[dc, hdc, sc] in the 3ch arch work , [sc, hdc, dc] in the next 3dc cluster, repeat from * to the last 3dc cluster (I made 312 sts)

Continue by making single crochet stitches evenly around the perimeter of the remaining 3 sides of the rectangular piece to complete the border (or follow what I did below).

Chain 1, do not turn. Work into the left side of the Rover Stitches rows, *2sc into the post dc st, sc into next dc st, repeat from * to last post dc st (I made 217 sc sts)

Work 1 sc stitch into each chains of the foundation chain (I made 312 sc sts)

Work into the next side of the Rover Stitches rows, *2sc into the post dc st, sc into next dc st, repeat from * to last post dc st (I made 217 sc sts)

Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing. Block the rectangle (you may click HERE for Tips on How to Block Crochet).

ASSEMBLY:

Place the rectangular piece flat on the floor. Fold the four corners of the piece into the center as shown on my photo below. Sew the edges together using Mattress Stitch method (or any joining method you prefer) approximately 4.5” (or 47 stitches) on each side. The part not sewn will be the opening for the armholes.

SLEEVES RIBBING:

Start with the right side of the piece facing you, chain 1 in any corner of first sleeve hole. 

Round 1: sc in the same stitch as the beginning chain, sc in the next 123 sts, sl st in the first sc made to join (124 sc sts made)

Round 2: ch 2, dc in the same stitch as the beginning chain, dc in the next 123 sts, sl st in the first dc made to join (124 dc sts made)

Round 3: ch 1, *fpsc in the next st, bpsc in the next st, repeat from * to last dc st, sl st in the first fpsc made to join (124 sts made)

Round 4, 6 & 8: Repeat Round 2

Round 5, 7 & 9: Repeat Round 3

Fasten off and weave in ends. Repeat steps on the other sleeve.

COLLAR RIBBING: 

Make sure the right side of the piece is facing you, then chain 1 in any corner where you joined the rectangular piece. 

Round 1: sc in the same stitch as the beginning chain, sc in the next 623 sts, sl st in the first sc made to join (624 sc sts made)

Round 2: ch 2, dc in the same stitch as the beginning chain, dc in the next 623 sts, sl st in the first dc made to join (624 dc sts made)

Round 3: ch 1, *fpsc in the next st, bpsc in the next st, repeat from * to last dc st, sl st in the first fpsc made to join (624 sts made)

Round 4, 6 & 8: Repeat Round 2

Round 5, 7 & 9: Repeat Round 3

Fasten off and weave in ends. 

Voila! You can now enjoy your finished shrug. Stay tuned for another crochet design coming very soon! Happy crocheting!

Hello, I hope everyone is having a very merry Christmas! It has been a busy last quarter for me, a lot of unfinished projects going on here all at once and a lot of gift making needed to happen so I wasn’t able to design another Christmas project this year. Nevertheless, I’m glad that I could give my love ones here and abroad something I personally made because I know there’s always something special about DIY gifts that can make people happy. I hope I could share those projects here on the blog soon which are mostly my favorite picks from Pinterest. You bet, a lot of photoshoot needs to happen, too!

For now I wanted to share these crochet Christmas Angels designed by Rhondda of Oombawka Design Crochet that I made two years ago. I found them yesterday morning while looking through my box of ornaments and decided to reuse them as tabletop decoration for our Noche Buena to add a bit more to the Holiday feels. You may click HERE for the free pattern.

Below I am sharing the links for easy to follow videos that helped me learn the basics of knitting.

• Starting the project Casting on
• Knit Stitch
• Purl Stitch
• Finishing the project Binding off

As a beginner, I tried my hands on easy projects first which are mostly items that can be made without having to follow a pattern. You will see on my photos below I was able to make a simple headband with a bow and cup cozy free hand. The cute coin purse by the way is a pattern I saw on Red Heart’s website.

Basically, all I had to do was cast on my desired number of stitches then make rows of repeated knit or purl stitches, finish off once I achieved the length that I need then sew the edges together. I diligently followed the instructions on each video – allowing myself to pause if I need to and really took time to slowly get a hang of coordinating my grip for the yarn, my tension and the needles. My hands were cramping the first few rows trying to get my stitches as even as possible.

When I became comfortable working with straight knitting needles and felt that I am ready to take my knitting journey to the next level, I bought my very own bamboo straight needles and a pair of circular needles from Gantsilyo Guru store.

These circular needles as shown on my photo above are two short knitting needles with pointed ends that are joined with a flexible cable and commonly used to knit in the round for sweaters, hats and socks without any seams. The idea of being able to knit socks and cozy apparel for my family always excites me but during my first few days of using circulars I was literally battling with them. I needed to frog my work several times because I can’t even figure out how to properly work in the round without twisting the stitches. But when I was about to give up, photos of beautiful knitted projects made with circular needles kept popping up on my Instagram feed which somehow inspired me to keep going.

So it goes without saying that I have enjoyed my newfound interest in knitting despite the difficulties. And after I’ve published a post about the very first Crocheted Gryffindor-inspired Scarf (free pattern HERE) I’ve made for my son last year and received a request from a dear friend to make one for her daughter Nikki as well, I immediately said yes. First, it’s a request that is too wonderful to turn down and second it gave me the perfect opportunity to make a knitted version of the scarf and practice everything that I have learned.

After getting all the essential materials, I started making the scarf last April following the step-by-step video tutorial by Studio Knit HERE. I used two skeins (approximately 500 meters) of my favorite Gantsilyo Milk Cotton Light yarn for the whole piece. With my 4.0mm circular knitting needles and very little time for me to work on a project each day, it took me four months to finish the scarf but this can be knit up quite fast on larger needles and bulkier yarn. My finished scarf measures 5”x 53″ (fringe included). You can add stitches to make yours wider and more sets of rounds to increase the length.

Since I used a different brand of yarn, I made a few adjustments from the original pattern. Starting with my maroon yarn, I casts on 56 stitches using my circular needle. I’ve completed 390 rounds which is 30 rounds for each color set (7 sets using yarn color Maroon and 6 sets using yarn color Burnt Sienna). The beginning and final set of rounds were made using yarn color maroon. When I’ve reached my desired length, I closed the opening of both ends by sewing them using whip stitch method, then added the fringes as finishing touch.

I was so happy when I finally completed my first knitted scarf, I’ve taken a few photos before I sent it off to its new owner! I think it’s a perfect match for my Crocheted Snowy Baby Owl (free pattern HERE). It’s a great set that can be used for a Harry Potter inspired halloween costume, baby shower party or even as a newborn photoprop!

The moment I saw the Star Stitch Purse designed by Stephanie of All About Ami last year, I instantly fell in love with it. It’s the kind of handmade purse that I’ve been wanting to make for myself! For one, it uses my favorite crochet stitch that has a simple yet elegant texture. I also love how the stylish handles and flat base of the purse were made, the techniques are quite easy and require very few steps. In terms of size, it can actually hold all the essentials with room for my little boy’s water bottle and snack which makes it a good everyday bag!

You may be wondering what took me so long to make the purse, it’s the yarn actually. The original purse was made with Lion Brand’s 24/7 cotton yarn but after months of searching I realized this yarn is not available locally. Since international shipping is way too expensive for me, I had to search for alternatives that would work just as well. Finally, I found the Dapper Dreamer Combed Cotton yarn by Gantsilyo Guru Selections. I knew it was the type of yarn I’ve been looking for, I tried using it first with my Basketweave Stitch Pouch and it holds the shape of the project pretty well. The fiber is quite durable and will hold up to repeated wear/use. I used approximately 600 meters of this yarn for the purse.

However, the purse pattern calls for a 5.5mm crochet hook and to be able for me to work comfortably with the yarn I have I should use a crochet hook between the size of 3.5mm-4.5mm. So using my 4.00mm crochet hook I adjusted the number of stitches to achieve the size I want. You can do a bit of math to figure out the stitch counts for your preferred size. In my case, I added 22 more chains to the foundation chain to achieve my desired width of 13 inches which is a little narrower and got a total of 77 star stitches for each row. I finished a total of 39 rows to get the same height as Stephanie’s purse.

I made mine fully lined with a zipper. I stopped crocheting at Row 37 and sewed the flat base first. Afterwards, I made a cloth lining following the bag’s width and length. You would notice that I sewed the base of the lining the same way as the base of the purse which helped retain the shape of the bag. The photo below shows the lining I made. I have crocheted this lining to the bag using half double crochet stitches then made the final row of star stitches. You can check this helpful video from Nicki’s Homemade Crafts if you want to learn how to crochet a lining. Lastly, I crocheted the handles and hopefully next time I could make the leather handles as well (I’m smiling at that thought).

The project may seem complicated, but it’s actually very easy with Stephanie’s well written pattern and blog post. You’ll see that the purse can be made larger or smaller by increasing/decreasing the number of foundation chain stitches. So, if you are just excited as I always am about making this purse, head over to All About Ami’s blog HERE to check out the free pattern and see her other beautiful makes.

I started using the purse last Sunday and here are some of the photos my brother was able to capture before we went to the church. I added my DIY tassel charm with crocheted beads to accessorise the purse a bit, and if you’d like to see how I made this you may check my separate blog post HERE.

As I’ve mentioned in my previous blog post, I will share some of the projects that I was able to complete using crocheted beads. Since I am currently working on a neutral colored crocheted purse, I thought a tassel charm would be a perfect addition to it for an instant pop of color and completely different look! So for my first installment, here’s an easy step-by-step guide on how I made this leather tassel charm and incorporated my crocheted beads. Note that I used 18mm wooden beads for this particular project. If you want to learn how to crochet around this bead size, I recommend heading over to Craft Passion’s tutorial first. If in case you prefer to use the smaller size beads you can check my blog post about Crocheting Around Small Wooden Beads so you’ll have everything ready before moving on to the steps below.

MATERIALS:

• Faux Leather
• Hot glue
• Small jump rings
• Chain-nosed pliers
• Pendant or a charm of your choice
• Lobster clasp (I used a 14mm lobster clasp)
• Mercerized cotton yarn
• Hook: No.8 JAPAN IMIA crochet steel hook (0.90mm crochet hook)
• Crocheted beads (I used 18mm wooden beads, see my blog post on How to Crochet Around Wooden Beads)

HOW TO MAKE A TASSEL FROM LEATHER:

Step 1: Start off by cutting a rectangular faux leather. The width will depend on how long you want your tassel to be, I made mine 10cm x 3cm. Using a ruler, mark a 0.07cm border from the top along the upper edge of the leather piece. Carefully cut thin and equally wide strips all the way to the end of the piece, making sure to stop at the 0.07cm border line each time. Cut one small strip of the leather, the same width as the fringe. This will be the loop for your tassel.

Step 2: With the reverse side of the leather piece facing up, place a small drop of hot glue on the left hand corner. Place the small strip on top of the glue then fold the leather strip over to create a loop and glue down.

Step 3: Start rolling the leather piece tightly adding small drops of glue along the top of the piece when necessary as you roll.

Step 4: At the end of the piece, add a small dab of hot glue and wrap over. You may want to hold the tassel for a few seconds or tie a rubber band around the top of the tassel to help keep it all in place until the glue is completely dried.

ASSEMBLY:

Step 1: Get two jump rings. Using a chain-nosed plier, attach one jump ring to the second jump ring then into the tassel handle.

Step 2: Using your crochet hook and mercerized cotton yarn, chain 70 or more to achieve a 6” long yarn cord.  Fasten off.

Step 3: Thread in yarn tail into a yarn needle. Insert yarn needle into one crocheted bead.

Step 4: Insert remaining crocheted beads (I used four 18mm beads to make this tassel charm).

Step 5: Insert the cord into the second jump ring that you’ve attached to the tassel.

Step 6: Insert yarn needle back to the last bead making sure that you leave a 0.5cm long yarn cord that will hold the jump ring in place.

Step 7: With the starting yarn tail still thread into the yarn needle, re-insert yarn cord into the other beads.

Step 8: Pull the yarn needle gently so the starting tail comes out from the other side of the first bead. Sew or tie the yarn tails together.

Step 9: Insert yarn needle back to the first bead and thread in both tails. Pull both tails so they come out from the other side. Using a sharp scissor with a pointy end, cut excess yarn tail.

Add a pendant of your choice and get ready to use it to accessorize your bag or purse!

I hope to share more projects using crocheted beads. In case you made one for yourself, I’d love to see it! Take a picture, share it on Instagram and don’t forget to tag @iheartgantsilyo. Happy crafting!